Discusses the ancient wall paintings of Tsaparang, an ancient citadel on a barren plateau in western Tibet. Legend that Yama, Hindu god of death, guards the entrance to this temple; Consideration of a recent exploration of the now-abandoned Buddhist bastion; Findings of 10th century murals; Introduction of Buddhism into central Tibet during the reign of King Song-tsen-gam-po; Role of religion in the founding of Tsaparang; Tranlsation of the Sanskrit texts from Rin-chen s'angpo, a renaissance figure in the history of Tibet.